Measure the yard space allowable for a shed. Sketch a basic slab, making sure it will not be near trees or plantings that will eventually grow large roots. Plan to build a framework using 2-by-8-inch boards lined with roll-type metal grid work, which will add strength to the concrete pour. Design the slab to fit the dimensions of the shed exactly, so select the shed model to be used before the slab is constructed.

Locate digging tools to prepare yard space for the slab. Use a rotary tiller, for instance, to break up the soil. Acquire shovels for one or two workers to dig out the slab space. Plan to have a hoe, as well, since rocks might be in the way. Level the slab space to allow for a concrete base 8 inches deep that will be at least a couple of inches above surrounding soil. Pour the slab deeper than 8 inches, if needed, to allow for a surface slightly above ground level.

Discuss all aspects of the pour with a concrete company. Talk with experts concerning the type of concrete needed for the pour, the costs involved, and special needs for allowing yard room for the delivery truck. Keep in mind that lawn flower beds or special plantings might dictate that wheelbarrows be used to fill the slab framework. Plan to hire workers to help with this, if needed.

Plan to build the slab surface to shed water. Slope the top surface, when the slab is constructed, to shed water since extreme rain might cause standing water. Allow for a floor scrubbing from time to time, too. Design the flooring framework slightly higher on the front side by one-half inch. During the slab pour, utilize a 2-by-4-inch lumber board to finish the pour to a smooth texture.

Design a landscaping border for the slab. Do this to allow for a bed of pebbles or mulch, for example, around the perimeter. Incorporate this border into the plan, so that lawn mowing will be easier near the shed. Install a border to keep weeds from growing near the new building, too. Design a border around the shed slab with a flat brick on the edge of the overall perimeter installed perfectly flat. Use this flat brick space for a lawn mower wheel to ride on.

Remove the snow from your driveway with a snow shovel or blower. Work from side to side rather than up and down the driveway. By working side to side, you’ll reduce your risk of falling by walking across the slope rather than up and down.

Fill a backpack or hand-held sprayer with liquid ice melt which is typically made with sodium chloride or calcium chloride, the same ingredients commonly found in solid forms of ice-melting products. You can purchase liquid de-icer at home improvement and hardware stores. Read the instructions to determine the amount needed to cover the area of your driveway. Avoid over-applying the product and use it only as directed. Liquid ice melt works better on a slope than salt nuggets or other dry ice-melt products that may simply bounce off the drive and roll down the slope.

Apply the liquid ice melt to the entire surface of your driveway. Use a back-and-forth sweeping motion and apply a thorough coat to the surface. Work from side to side until the entire driveway is covered.

Use a tape measure to measure the length of your driveway. Hammer stakes on either side of the driveway. Tie strings across the stakes on either side to create an outline of the driveway.

Excavate the area between the stakes with an earth mover, according to the earth mover manufacturer’s directions. Excavate to a depth of between 4 to 8 inches.

Attach the grading blade to the earth mover. Set the grade level at 1/4 inch for each 1 foot of your length of driveway. Check the earth mover’s manufacturer’s directions to ensure the proper procedure is followed when setting the grade level.

Turn on the tractor and move it across the excavated area. The blade should set the driveway pitch as it moves the soil. Repeat this step until you have covered the entire driveway. Check the depth with a tape measure to ensure you meet your grade requirements.

If laying out pavers, arrange them in the desired pattern, from one end to the other, before installing them in your driveway. Check with a level to ensure any installed patterns are even. Pour sand between the pavers and sweep away any excess sand with a broom.

Level the area for the driveway. Use a shovel and rake to remove the grass and top layer of soil from the area. Level out the ground as much as possible and use a construction level to check the accuracy. Make the area wide enough to accommodate the width of the forms without making the space too narrow.

Build the forms. The do-it-yourselfer can save money by building their own forms for the driveway. Lay 2-inch by 4-inch boards end to end along the leveled area and hold in place with wooden stakes placed on each side of each board.

Mix the concrete according to manufacturer’s directions in a wheelbarrow. Save on renting a concrete mixer by mixing it yourself. Have a helper assist in mixing as several loads are necessary for pouring a driveway.

Pour and spread concrete with a shovel. Move the pouring concrete into corners first then across the area between the forms. Even out with the shovel. The concrete should be a minimum of two inches thick.

Trowel the area to finish. Pull a large trowel across the concrete to give a finished look. Work with a helper to finish quickly before the concrete begins to harden. Work from the first area poured to the last.

Allow the concrete to set for several hours before removing the forms.

Obtain proper permits and follow all local ordinances.

Place stakes in the ground to mark the area for the concrete driveway. Measure from side to side and top to bottom, ensure widths and lengths are equal throughout.

Excavate the staked out area, dig down 10 inches.

Level the base of the excavated ground, removing high spots and filling in low spots.

Compact the soil with a tamper, which you can rent from a tool rental center, hardware store or home improvement store.

Frame the edges of the excavation with 2″x6″s, pushed up against the outside edges of the excavated area. This framing acts as a concrete form, which keeps poured concrete within the excavated area.

Lay 1″x2″ every 6 square feet to work as expansion joints. Expansion joints permit the concrete to move, preventing cracking.

Pour 3 inches of crushed on the base of the excavation; level the stone to fill in low spots and knock down high spots.

Place reinforcing wire on top of the crushed stone. This strengthens the concrete.

Order a 4,000-psi concrete pour from a ready-mix concrete delivery company. PSI refers to the amount of weight concrete bears.

Spray water over the stone bed immediately prior to the pour.

Pour concrete into the corner of the form extending towards the center, make sure the reinforcing wire does not move.

Use a bull float to level the surface of the wet concrete. A bull float resembles a large trowel attached to a pole.

Use a trowel to separate the concrete from the forms.

Spray curing compound over the concrete surface and let the concrete dry fully before use.

Clean the concrete with a pressure washer. If you don’t have a washer, rent one from a tool rental store. Pressure washer wands have tips that can be changed to increase the pressure of the spray. Use the green or yellow tip to prevent concrete damage.

Remove any loose concrete that may remain in cracks or holes with a masonry chisel and hammer. Sweep out other remaining debris with a stiff-bristled brush. Wash out cracks and holes with a water hose.

Patch and repair holes and cracks with premixed concrete patch. Premixed concrete patch can be purchased from most hardware stores. This product is made with latex additives, which will help keep the concrete flexible and prevent cracking and flaking.

Clean grease spots with degreaser and a stiff bristled brush. Spray on the degreaser and allow it to set for 10 minutes. Scrub the degreaser into the grease spot. Wash away the remaining product with a water hose or pressure washer. Repeat the process if necessary to fully remove the grease.

Allow the concrete to fully dry before proceeding. Apply a bonding agent, found at hardware stores, along with the concrete topcoat. Pour the bonding chemical directly onto the concrete, beginning in the center and working out. Distribute the bonding agent with a paint roller.

Allow the bonding agent to fully dry to the touch. Pour out the concrete topcoat directly from the container — a 5-gallon bucket — and onto the concrete. Begin in the center of the concrete and distribute the topcoat with a squeegee. Apply no pressure onto the topcoat with the squeegee. Allow only the weight of the squeegee to press onto the topcoat.

Apply two to three coats, allowing sufficient drying time between coats. Observe the topcoat application instructions for proper drying and recoating times. Once the topcoat has dried to the touch, cover the concrete surface with plastic to prevent rapid drying of the surface. Allow the topcoat to set for 24 to 48 hours before applying heavy traffic to the area.